Jewelry & Watches
Six auctions a year
Jewelry enthusiasts are always drawn to the creations of the renowned jewelers of Place Vendôme: Boucheron, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels... However, some newer jewelers have managed to make a name for themselves and are now sought after by collectors, such as Suzanne Belperron, René Boivin, Fouquet, Templier, Georges Lenfant, not to mention Lalique’s creations. Among the most sought-after gems, colored stones, and fine pearls are Burmese rubies and sapphires, Colombian emeralds, and diamonds.
A Word from the Expert
“Through the auctions we organize and the specialty we champion, we are committed to highlighting the historical and sociological significance of antique jewelry. Often valued primarily for the materials from which they are made, these artifacts are nonetheless precious testimonies to their era. Jewelry created as special commissions—particularly for specific events or as gifts for prominent figures—is now especially sought after by buyers. On a personal note, I would very much like to one day admire Cartier’s legendary brooch: *L’Oiseau Libéré*. Designed in 1942, this highly symbolic creation was a message of protest directed at the occupying forces. With very few examples ever produced, it is extremely rare at public auctions.”
Contacts
Christelle Batailler
christelle.batailler@ader-paris.fr
Expert:
Vanessa Soupault
3 Favart Street, 75002 Paris
Phone: +33 (0)1 53 40 77 10
Upcoming Sales
No sale for the moment
Successful Auctions
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Paire de clips de revers en or 18K (750), modèles Hexagones, chacun orné de saphirs calibrés en serti mystérieux appliqués d’un croissant de diamants ronds pavés et saphirs ronds dans des hexagones. Signés et numérotés. Travail français de la fin des années 1930. Dimensions : 3,9 x 2,6 cm environ. Poids brut : 61,3 g
Result
60,160 EUR
PAUL ROBIN Parure en or 18K (750) et argent comprenant : une broche circulaire représentant une tête de hibou, les yeux en quartz œil de chat cabochons entourés et surmontés de diamants taillés en roses, un bracelet ouvrant en or, orné du même motif recélant une montre de poche, et une bague porte-souvenir en or ornée également d’une tête de hibou laissant apparaître un compartiment. Travail français vers 1875. Non signée. Dimensions des hiboux : 3 x 2,8 cm et 1,7 x 1,7 cm environ. Dimensions du bracelet : 1 x 16,5 cm environ. Poids brut : 93,3 g (léger enfoncement, égrisure)
Result
12,160 EUR
SETTEPASSI Diadème en or et en argent pouvant se transformer en collier, articulé, à décor de palmettes stylisées serties de diamants de taille ancienne, ceux du centre plus importants (le diadème se transforme en collier par le retrait du système en métal). Travail de la fin du XIXe siècle. Dans son écrin à la forme. Longueur totale : 48,5 cm environ. Poids brut : 90 g (sans le système rigide en métal).
Result
47,360 EUR
Articulated ribbon bracelet in platinum pierced with geometrical patterns set with round or calibrated old cut diamonds, adorned with 6 oval rubies. French work of the years 1925. Dimensions : 2 x 17,8 cm approximately. One ruby accompanied by a GEM-Paris pre-report (2022) attesting to its origin in Myanmar, unheated. A French 1925 bracelet set with diamonds and 6 rubies (one of them laboratory tested Myanmar no heated)
Result
52,480 EUR
Platinum ring, set with a navette diamond weighing 5.01 cts. Finger size : 50. Gross weight: 5 g The diamond is accompanied by a report LFG (2022) attesting: color E, clarity VVS2 A 5.01 cts diamond (E/VVS2) ring
Estimate
160,000 - 200,000 EUR
BOUCHERON - Long necklace with transformation, model Serpent Bohême, in 18K (750) gold textured composed of 4 oval rings bracelets scandés of crysoprases or coral angel skin alternated. The 4 bracelets signed. French work of the 1970s. Length : 78 cm approximately. Gross weight: 196.2 g (a pair of ear clips in 18K (750) gold, adorned with a lozenge of angel skin coral) A Boucheron 1970 long necklace made with 4 bracelets
Result
35,840 EUR
PATEK PHILIPPE AQUANAUT " JUMBO ". REF. 5167A-001. Sold on october 20, 2009 Steel bracelet watch on black rubber. Case: steel cushion with screwed sapphire back. Dial: black-gray with Arabic numerals and luminous hands, center seconds and date window. Movement: automatic, cal. 324/393. Geneva Seal. Black tropical rubber strap with PP steel folding clasp. Dial, case and movement signed. Numbered 3906369/4708993. Diameter: 40 mm With case, certificate of origin (purchase Place Vendôme, Paris) and instructions for use. Provenance: first owner.
Result
37,120 EUR
PRE-MODEL 1530 N° 44644 SOLD MARCH 1, 1942 AT CASANOVA RETAIL, BOLOGNA (ITALY). Chronograph wristwatch, "4/5", three counters, in 18K yellow gold on leather. Case: round, domed pressure back, olive pushers. Case shape "255". Dial: dark champagne, baton hour markers and Arabic numeral 12 applied in pink, railway track with minute track graduated to 1/5th of a second, blue tachometric scale. Three guilloché auxiliary dials, for small seconds, 30 minutes with red "4/5", and 12-hour chronograph. Polished gold baton hands, chrono hand and two subdials in blued steel. Movement: mechanical, column-wheel, cal. 13 CCVH, monometallic balance wheel, Breguet balance spring. Strap: leather with attached pin buckle. Dial, case and movement signed. Numbered 44644 (case and movement). Diameter: 32 mm. Gross weight: 47.18 g. With : Extract from the Registres AP. PROVENANCE: Acquired by descent, kept in the family of the original owner. Excellent overall condition. Bibliography: similar examples are illustrated in: Gilbert L. Brunner, Christian Pfeiffer-Belli, Martin K. Wehrli, Audemars Piguet, le maître de l'horlogerie, 1993, Le Brassus, p. 242, 243. The 1530 "pre-modele" is illustrated in: Audemars Piguet, Les montres-bracelets à complications Audemars Piguet au XXème siècle, Le Brassus, p. 186-187. The watch is well indicated in the Audemars Piguet Archives as corresponding to the photograph numbered 1530, of which 8 examples were produced (including 6 in 18K yellow gold) and only 3 delivered to the retailer Casanova, in Bologna, Italy. The movement was manufactured in 1939 and the watch left the factory/sold in 1942. This model is one of the very few chronograph wristwatches produced by Audemars Piguet during the Second World War, between 1939 and 1945, the Manufacture's most productive period in this specific chronograph segment before the revival of the 1980s. It is a perfect illustration of the high quality and exclusivity of Audemars Piguet's production during this period, which is rarely represented at auction: only 210 watches were produced during this six-year war period. What's more, its excellent state of preservation proves that the watch, as confirmed by its current owner (a descendant of the original owner), has been worn very little, and the case has never been polished. The dial has not been altered in any way, and this version, with its long applied batons that perfectly inhabit and balance the space, is less common than those in the shape of a stud. The index 12 is in Arabic numerals, not Roman. The movement, in exceptional condition, has been crafted to a high level of finish. A single watchmaker's revision mark can be seen on the inside of the caseback.
Result
166,400 EUR
VACHERON & CONSTANTIN PRODUCED IN 1906 N° 190605 Open Face" pocket watch in 18K (750) yellow gold with complications: perpetual calendar, moon phases, single-pusher chronograph and minute repeater. Case: round, basin-shaped, hinged, composed of four elements, smooth reverse. Bezel: snap-on, hinged. Slide at 9 o'clock to activate the striking mechanism, correctors at 3 and 6 o'clock on the case middle for quick calendar adjustment and push-button for chrono activation integrated into the crown. Yellow gold case, engraved : Vacheron & Constantin Genève Minute repeater Chronograph Minute counter Chronometer Moon phases Perpetual Calendar Dial: silvered, black enamelled "Breguet" hour-markers, railway track and external 1/5th of a second minute graduation, blued steel "pear" hands. Four auxiliary dials: - 12 o'clock: 48 months over 4 years, 30-minute chrono counter - 3 o'clock: date - 6 o'clock: phases and ages of the moon, small seconds - 9 o'clock: days of the week (in French) Movement: mechanical, lever escapement, cal. RA 18''', bimetallic balance wheel, end-curve balance spring, micrometric swan-neck adjustment, column wheel, 39 jewels, crown winding and time setting. Two hammers on gong. Dial and cuvette signed. Numbered 190605. Diameter: 55 mm. Gross weight: 165.29 g. Including : Vacheron Constantin Certificate of Authenticity. Provenance : Acquired by descent.
Result
51,200 EUR
F.P. JOURNE OCTA UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) Boutique Edition Sold November 1, 2013 18K (750) rose gold bracelet watch on leather with second time zone, date and power reserve. Case: round, sapphire screw-down caseback, corrector pusher for setting the time-zone disc, domed smooth bezel. Dial: blackened gold and bleached silver guilloché, large date, off-center sub-dial for hours/minutes/time-zone disc and small seconds, engraved and painted sapphire map of the Earth on 24-time-zone disc, 120-hour/5-day power-reserve indication. Movement: 18K rose gold, unidirectional self-winding, cal. 1300.3, balance wheel with 4 inertia blocks, Anachon flat balance spring, exclusive power-reserve system, chronometer precision, guilloché 22K gold rotor. Strap: leather with pink gold buckle, signed F.P. Journe. Dial, case and movement signed. Numbered 107-UTC. Diameter: 40mm Gross weight: 96.46g With: Case, surboîte, certificate of origin (purchase Montres Journe Paris, 63, rue du Fbg St Honoré), instructions for use (+CD), stylus, new signed leather strap. This UTC (Coordinated Universal Time) model was produced by Journe from 2011 to 2018 with a patented system that gives a new visual and technical identity to an already existing complication: the dual time zone, by replacing GMT as the official time, based on the earth's rotation, with international atomic time: UTC (Greenwich Mean Time has been in force since the 19th century and was replaced in 1972 by Coordinated Universal Time). The novelty lies in the sapphire disc, painted with a world map, divided into the 24 time zones of the Earth, which indicates the different time periods linked to the Earth's geographical positions, also specifying summer and winter times.
Result
93,600 EUR
AUDEMARS PIGUET SAUTANTE TIME Produced circa 1926 Art Deco period 18K (750) white gold Lépine pocket watch with hour window and digital minute display. Case: round, flat, smooth reverse with flattened edges. Dial: silvered, jumping hour aperture at noon and sector aperture for minutes. Movement: mechanical, lever escapement, cal. 17 SVF, faux cotes de Genève decoration, compensated bimetallic balance, flat balance-spring, 19 jewels, signed Audemars, Piguet & Co, Brassus & Genève, Swiss. Numbered 34636. Dial, case and movement signed. Numbered 34636 (case and movement). Diameter: 44mm Gross weight: 46.44g According to the Audemars Piguet Archives, the watch was sold in Paris on December 17, 1929. We would like to thank Mr. Raphaël Balestra, Audemars Piguet Heritage and Archives Department, for his kind collaboration. Bibliography: A similar model is shown in GL. Brunner, Ch. Pfeiffer-Beli, M.K. Wehrli, Audemars Piguet, le maître de l'horlogerie, Le Brassus, Switzerland, 1993, p. 86. It was the French watchmaker Antoine Blondeau who invented this mechanism and, around 1830, produced a pocket watch for Louis-Philippe, King of the French. Numerous versions of this invention can be found in the antique collections of most of the major watchmakers, and at around the same time, during the Art Deco period, on pocket watches by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Breguet and Vacheron Constantin. This style of display was also particularly fashionable on wristwatches, fitting in perfectly with the slim, elegant watch designs of the period: Audemars Piguet made its first wristwatch with a digital jumping-hour display in 1924, Cartier in 1928 with the Tank and Rolex with the Prince Brancard...
Result
17,550 EUR
RENÉ BOIVIN after JULIETTE MOUTARD Pair of 18K (750) gold corolla lapel clip brooches, each set with amethysts and peridots in opposition. Unsigned, hallmarked. French work, 1950's. Diameter: approx. 2.8cm. Gross weight: 29.7g The brooches are accompanied by a Boivin certificate of authenticity (2024) attesting: original creation by René Boivin circa 1950 after a design by Juliette Moutard. A 1950 René Boivin pair of brooches
Result
20,800 EUR
CARTIER (by André Vassort) Articulated bracelet of aymetrical links in 18K (750) gold, each adorned with a line of 4 calibrated sapphires. Signed and numbered. French work, 1945. Preserved in its case. Dimensions: approx. 19.4x1.9cm. Gross weight: 112.5g The bracelet is accompanied by a report from IAJA, Olivier Bachet (2024) attesting: work from 1945. A 1945 Cartier sapphires bracelet
Result
101,400 EUR