Chaofu summer dress in embroidered silk gauze, China, 19th century The deep midnight-blue silk gauze dress is embroidered with gold metallic threads and polychrome silks depicting four large five-clawed dragons chasing the sacred pearl. They are placed on the front, back and on each shoulder, moving among ruyi-shaped clouds, flames, cranes, bats and Taoist emblems. The ensemble is framed by lishui bands depicting mountain ridges rising from raging waves, amidst which swirl auspicious symbols. The belt is adorned with two pairs of dragons on either side of the terrestrial diagram, above foaming waves. The same decorative scheme extends to the sleeves and pleated skirt, embroidered with sixteen medallions enclosing a small dragon. A seventeenth dragon is concealed beneath the flap. The dress closes on the right with six buttons, five in gilded copper alloy and one in silk passementerie. Height: 131 cm; width: 214 cm Accents and tears in the gauze. This solemn court dress, called chaofu in Chinese, was the most prestigious ceremonial garment of the Qing imperial court. It was reserved only for the highest state occasions: enthronements, grand audiences, imperial weddings, rulers' anniversaries, as well as seasonal celebrations such as major ritual sacrifices or the New Year. The two-part construction of the dress, with a pleated skirt attached to the upper part, derives from Ming-style court costume. The Manchus adapted it by changing the loose sleeves for tapered sleeves and narrow "horse hoof" cuffs, symbols of their original nomadic lifestyle.